Saumlaki, Tanimbar Islands

But first things first, we had to clear Customs and Immigration then see the Harbourmaster. What fun and games that was… 

Within a few moments of being in Saumlaki we were befriended by Bobby. Bobby worked for the tourism board and took us under his wing and tried to help wherever possible.

Saumlaki is a small but hectic kind of place and we both remarked on how clean it was. Mostly Christian but the mosques dominate the air waves. The population has boomed of late with the prospect of gas mining. It has brought an influx of people in hope of work and a by-product of that is traffic. Yes, traffic. So much traffic that the main road through town has now become a two-laned one way ring road. There is a traffic light too. It only shows amber and we’ve no idea of what control it gives.

The town is well serviced by a fabulous market in the harbour precinct. Fresh fruit and veges, seafood and of course a few chickens tethered by their leg.

The people are very friendly, many “hey misters”, hand shakes and we were even ambushed by a guy who demanded a selfie with us. The start of the selfie onslaught.

Selfie with a fisherman in Saumlaki

We were surprised to see a bloke wearing a marijuana t-shirt and also surprised to hear drones flying in the waterfront bar.

Speaking of the waterfront bar, the Hotel Harapan Indah is a fabulous spot for a drink and meal. Cold bintang, smily staff, and in our opinion, the best food in town. The view across the harbour is gorgeous and the dinghy dock very convenient. We were lucky enough to meet Danny, the owner, and sign his visitors book. This incredible book spans a few decades and is a great piece of yachtie and Saumlaki history.

Saumlaki and Pulau Jamdena have some very beautiful attributes but tourism here is a long way off possibly due to its remoteness. The only direct flights are from Ambon. The graphic designer in me was desperate to create some good tourism paraphenalia for them.

After selfies with all of the people in Bobby’s office then selfies across the road at Joyce’s road side cafe, we jumped into a car to do a half day island tour with Arthur, a colleague of Bobby’s who had a car and not much else to do.

As we listened to Indonesian cover versions of the latest pop songs the dog dash ornaments bobbed their heads and coconut palms whizzed by.

First up we visited Tumbur, a village where the local craftsman carve ornate figurings and boats of a certain style.

Next was a stone boat alter, a historic and cultural site where rituals were performed, and like all tourist attractions, the water here is very expensive. We couldn’t quite figure out the history of the site but it was very interesting nevertheless. There are other stone boat alters on the island but we didn’t have the time that day.

Steep stairs from the boat stone alter

We walked down the steep steps to the beach then around the village which was very quiet. The kids were at school and most of the adults were working in the forest.

On the way out of the village a few baskets caught our eye. Webbing is another craft practiced in Tanimbar. Under the watchful eyes of all the girls in the village we chose out a large basket and wished we had space on the boat for more.

Lastly, we visited a strange sculpture next to the coast which signified the church’s arrival in the early 1900s.

There are other things to see and do in and around Saumlaki. Check out the local tourism board’s website. tanimbartourism.co.id, disparekrafmtb@gmail.com

We had the pleasure of the company of another cruising yacht when we first arrived. During cocktails on the bow of Jalan Jalan we found out that we’d been Tony’s tenant during our stay in Cullen Bay, Darwin. Tony had a local deckhand helping him out and he was a gem of a bloke called Window. He was great to speak to and gave us a good insight to the local goings ons in Saumlaki.

We really enjoyed our time in Saumlaki and hope to return to check out more anchorages when we head this way to explore the Tanimbar Islands.

Things to do ashore

Tourism isn’t really happening in Saumlaki. There are a few nice beaches and sites of historical or cultural significance. We did a half day car tour of a few historical and cultural sites as well as some of the craftsmen. To check out more about the island – tanimbartourism.co.id, disparekrafmtb@gmail.com

Ojeks are everywhere and local trips cost 5000rp. Plenty of bemos. Car hire is a little more expensive. Arrange with Hotel Harapan Indah.

Plenty of ATMS in town.

Eating/drinking

Hotel Harapan Indah is our pick of the bunch. There aren’t a lot of options.

Hotel Harapan Indah is a prominent waterfront establishment. Its huge tree-filled deck offers a relaxed atmosphere to enjoy a cold Bintang and a delicious meal while enjoying the sea breeze and view. The dinghy dock is a heaven send for yachties and the staff are really lovely. Owners, Danny and Ester speak english. The hotel can help with arranging car hire, taxis to airport etc. 

Hotel Harapan Indah

Fueling

We wanted 700 litres of diesel. This involved 6 jerry cans, 3 illegal fishermen, a dinghy and an afternoon. They were very efficient and even took our rubbish. They’ve since moved on but Bobby the local guide would do his best to help.

There is a Pertamina near town, an easy bemo or ojek trip.

Provisioning

The market is pretty good. There is a mix of fish, fruit and vege amongst clothing stalls. Beer can be found here.

Away, inland from the market is a two storied building with more shops and has a largish supermarket that has frozen chicken, no fresh stuff is sold here.

Basic hardware available and a phone shop near the Hotel Harapan Indah is owned by a bloke with basic english skills. (There are two shops next to each other, use the one on the right when looking at the from across the road).

Internet

Terrible here. Too many people drawing on an already under-prescribed service. You can only get internet around the town and harbour. No internet between here and Wetar or Kalabahi, Alor.