Phi Phi Islands

We weren’t too sure about visiting Phi Phi. We’d heard it was a crazy busy place, over-touristed, and some anchorages were so ruined by tourism that they’ve been closed to the public.

Since we were going past en route to Ao Chalong, Phuket, we thought we’d nudge into one of the bays to see how it looked and we were pleasantly surprised to find a quiet, well protected bay so we decided to drop the hook and stay a few.

 

Things to do ashore

 

There are many things to occupy your time at Phi Phi Don. Almost everyone is selling long tail tours to visit the many bays and snorkelling sites. Those that aren’t selling boat trips will plait your hair or offer massages.

A walk up to the view point is a must do, even if it’s just to see the expressions of those making their way up as you make your way down. The stairs are very steep in places. Minor entrance fee to get to view point 1 and 2, 30 baht pp. We didn’t bother going to view point 3 but have heard the view is even better so worth the effort for those a bit fitter than me. The route to the viewpoint is signposted though Ton Sai village and is also the tsunami evacuation route.

The south of the island is the busiest. Ton Sai is the port side and Loh Dalum offers a nice beach and a good place to launch a kayak from to explore the bay. Monkey Beach is to the south of the bay and does have monkeys. They’re quite tame so a selfie with one isn’t out of the question. Those fitter can head north out of Loh Dalum towards Nui where you can get amongst some overhangs, a pretty beach, average snorkelling and a few blow holes.

Both sides of southern Phi Phi Don have waterfront restaurants and bars. Ton Sai has more restaurants, Loh Dalum is where you can find the noisy nightclubs and watch fire dancing shows. There’s a village of sorts in between the coasts with a small market area. Drinks are more expensive along waterfront than in the village.

One of the most fun nights we have had out in a long time was spent at Kong Siam, a little bar in the heart of town. The owner (?) was a runner up in one of Thailand’s “The Voice” and the dude is seriously awesome. He’ll have you singing and dancing and staying up to the wee hours. Highly recommend.

We went on a mission to find the best margarita on the island and came up short although we did like the Banana Bar for a sunset drink from their rooftop.

As with all good touristy places there is an Irish bar, however this one doesn’t sell Guinness. Cruel Irish joke?

The Reggae Bar isn’t a reggae bar but a place to watch Muay Thai boxing from about 9.30pm. Worth visiting if you haven’t seen this style of martial arts before.

There are so many places to eat you will be spoiled for choice. We ate at Himalaya and it was an exceptional meal. Light garlic naan, thai green curry and garlic and peppercorn seafood stir-fry. The flavours were perfectly balanced and seafood was fresh, flavoursome and perfectly cooked.

The north of Phi Phi Don moves at a much slower pace. The little village of Ao Loh Bagoa has a strip of bamboo shanty style bars all of similar theme. We ate at Oasis restaurant twice and can recommend their pad thai and chicken with cashew. 

The beach here is dominated by resorts and is only good for swimming at high tide. A mangrove forest can be found just north of the beach and a bridge crosses a clear mangrove river which is very pretty. The bridge was apparently styled on San Fran’s Golden Gate Bridge.

If you are a walker or a jogger there are some trails around. I did the north eastern walk from Loh Lana which was partly shaded and gently undulating with lovely views.